Openers
Garage door openerrepair
Some opener trouble takes a minute to fix yourself. Run through the checks below. If the door still won't move, call.
Checks you can make
Power
Make sure the opener is plugged in. Plug a lamp into the same outlet to test it. Garage outlets are often on a ground-fault circuit, and those trip.
Remote and keypad
Try the wall button. If that works and the remote doesn't, change the remote's battery first.
Sensors
Look at the two small units near the floor on either side of the door. A blinking or missing light usually means they are blocked or knocked out of line.
The door itself
With the door fully closed, pull the release handle and lift by hand. If it's very heavy or won't stay put halfway, the door is the problem. Don't press the button again.
Stop there
Don't open the opener's housing. It holds a circuit board wired to household power.
What the sound can tell you
Humming with no movement can mean a door too heavy to lift or a stuck drive. Grinding can mean worn gears. No sound at all points to power or the controls.
Tell the contractor what you hear. It helps them know what to bring.
Don't let anyone bypass a sensor
Removing or bridging a sensor makes the door close, and also takes away the protection against it closing on a person. The Consumer Product Safety Commission says openers made for sale after January 1, 1991 must reverse, and that outside protection such as an electric eye came in 1993. If an opener predates that, replace it instead of repairing it.
Ready to talk to a contractor?
Your call goes to an independent contractor who works in this area. Say what the door is doing, ask what the price covers, and ask for license details before you agree to anything.